a clean six-foot right at blacks beach

dawn patrol, paddling out when the water is glass

fish tacos from tj oyster bar

my 5'10" twin fin, the one shaped by ryan lovelace

the pacific ocean

my dad teaching me to read the ocean when i was 8

sunset cliffs at actual sunset

salt on your skin after a session, before you rinse off

the endless summer, obviously

my mom's spam musubi

the feeling of catching the last wave and knowing it was the right one to end on

morning offshore winds

baja california, the whole peninsula

the idea that you can't own a wave

yvon chouinard